h-=l!m=mgu=nQ=oQ=pQ=v\=@ >E==J^==N^==R^==V^==]T 9>q=_T 9> 9>b8=z=gz==m`==v==xB=B===6=N=6=s3=s=G{= G{=!dM=<%==|.=Si =TD"=YA"=[A"=]m#=^u#=_C$=`n(=aa(=bNu(=fN(=g]g*=p[g*=rZg*=t q =v q=xZg*={Zg*=~Zg*=Zg*=Zg*=Zg*= Zg*=Zg*=Zg*= q=Zg*=Zg*=F=Zg*= q = q=$ q = q=( q = q=/ q =Zg*=2F= q=> q =Zg*=HF=Zg*=SF= q=W q = q=[ q = q=hZg*=FN=k q = q=q})= Z)=v )= )=_)=)=0|)=?~O)=B~O)=E+J)= B.J)= +J)= ^)E)= Kl)= ;J)= =l> > > ?l>{W104J EX =!Q?m=,=b]=+<Dea= ;= Fx;= ;= HJ= P= J!]= x= R&= &x= ^= Kq= dg= q= y= 8= }= s5= ;= 9= ;= B= UB= e} = U~ = ~ = 3 = g = 1^8 = 28 = 6D9 = 73 = =8|= >8= ?8|= A = B = f= h?= i= n7= ya= z{_= {Se= = (=  ,=  q.= 4O*= ;*= z;*= " &= c&=  &={*104S E=6J<N=8y =M=ab=t_=/=Y=,h=w=9V=_=?&_=0w=1e=; =< == =T" =(Q =+=N =BG9 =C[# =GPt =L;t =Mt =iQ =n =  =s.= )= '= [b= L= @)'= "= =gk= >g= ?gk= g={104s E32={tN=T9=6J<{105 E=tgs<=im=M7=E=t9r<G4,>s`1>%E=sg=J=Dea=m=PE]>86=9VE=M_ =P9]=a_ =bb]=t =u#)[=m Z=kZ=h Z=s: =XkY=" =,2X=&jdX=+=59 =R=9V=|>=;ER=R=>&_=_=Ci=)^=Ij=-]=O,='=Q'=&=V[==Z=P=cLa=Ha=g@`=A=jDA=A=q["="=s&=H=x&='={}=)=~=;,=;= ;,= >=)==)==%=?== 9="=#`=%b=0: =1: =4R=8MR=:#MR=; =< == =B>G=CC=EWa=GYa=LHF=RHF=S_(=T =W =X =]b=^3=_>=`3=dy=h\=l8=m%=n&=o&M=p&=v2L=q!I>VN=I=M=L=M=P=M=T=M=Z\=hQ=b=W=g=CT=mC=;=v = >=x=@='='B=a=a=a=x=Qx=C= C=!'="3u*=#*=$S)=%66'='#MR=(' =*7MR=+|=<4 == =B=CU=Dl'=E%=F%=GQ=K@MR=L=M>=SSk=T_!=Y{!=[S{!=]*#=^@%#=_e#=`9'=a_'=b*'=f*o'=g<[)=im =k>MR=n =p:[)=r[)=x:[)={[)=~:[)=[)=:[)=[)= :[)=[)=:[)=[)=:[)=[)=1:[)=[)=R:[)=[)=q'(=R(=v(=&(=L(=w (=  = T=_=Ko= =: =5;"=l*=(.=0!1={3= h-=$WMR=%i-=&u-='-=0z(=?M(=BM(=EF(=J+=N2R=O+=U+=V*=Wh"*=Xh*=kW'=np'=q2R=rQ'=sP5 =3R=VQW> VQW>;R= |\"=:"=$$ =;R=);R=P =+M =Y =8JQ=7=CJM=L=KBR=BR=N\B==VCR=rR=Y= =\1u=k =^k =s=r=R=u = D = R= R= "R=  =  = R= a = /V = / = !YJ= %YJ= +2Q= ,&3Q= -^= /;3Q= 0J= := ;= ?d3Q= Dz3Q= Fe= G = U7= X8= Z3Q= [8= \N8= dK= f-= jmP= llP= mmP= n 1= o 1= pb/= vcP= {cP= |cP= }{0= =/= =/= b2= := = ;P= ;(P= %>P= =(P= )43 = B(P= @HP= F(= C(F(= . = T\P= L = ^@(= \'P= }P= 'P= cP= )cP= CsP= FP= KLh(= ]P= fP= |P= ~P= p'P= oP= o'P= 'mP= O = ;0P= P) = P9O= fO= c:O= :u=I|s=s=L|s=s=P|s=s=T|s=s=Zu=v=b_y=M{=gM{=y=mQ]=b_=v\`=`=x-b=-b=c=c= 0= 0= 0="="=h_= h=!dM=<%==|.=Si =TD"=YA"=[A"=]m#=quot; diameter hole was drilled in the flattened end of the brass rod.  Into this hole and the matching hole in the plate on the trim tab insert a piece of .010" o.d. white styrene rod.  The rod is then cut to length and mushroomed over using a heating iron.  

 

 

Ribs and tail wheelwell in place

Now we move to the inside of the fuselage.  The rib sections and the tailwheel well are constructed using flat styrene stock.  As for the carburetor air scoop intake I used 1/2" round tube.  The holes for the air filters on both sides of the fuselage were drilled out then thinned to scale.  Attached into these holes is fine stainless steel screen.  As a side note on the use of screen for detailing, never place a screen inside the carburetor air scoop intake as there never was one installed in this location. 

Click on images below to see larger images

While working on the inside details I decided to build in transportation supports.  These come in handy when traveling to and from contests.  Just make front and back support brackets in your model carrying box, remove the prop and rudder, insert tubing through these brackets into your model and you're ready to go.

The tailwheel assembly from the kit was tossed out keeping only the tire.  To this was added  a new rim, built from telescoping aluminum tubing, and an axle and support shaft crafted from .060" o.d. round brass rod.  The rest of the assembly was made from styrene and aluminum.  The doors were fashioned from .005" thick aluminum sheet stock (beer / cola cans) and styrene.  Before joining the fuselage the tailwheel got it's first coat of paint.

Next came the tail plane.  The two halves of the stabilizer / elevator were joined together then all of the raised rivets, panel lines and access doors were removed.  Then the trailing edges were thinned to scale.  Using pencil lines to draw on the elevator I took my jeweler's saw with an extra fine blade I separated the elevators from the stabilizers.  At this point the trailing edge of the stabilizer and the leading edge of the elevator were filled with styrene and sanded to shape.  A new trim tab, built out of styrene, was added.  It included the cutouts, hinges etc. 

Once the sanding was completed - I used up to 1500 grit wet / dry sandpaper - it was time to replace the panel lines, rivets and access doors.  After drawing the lines for rivets, panels and doors, masking tape is butted together leaving a small gap for the scribing tool.  Each panel line is scribed three times.  For the rivets, I use a sharpened needle point .010" diameter drill bit to push gently into the plastic.  Once these applications are completed the area is resanded with 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper.

Since my tri-tool scribing template has no rectangular patterns I use templates made from .005" aluminum can stock.  These were made by drawing the desired patterns on the aluminum, scribing around them, then drilling .015" holes in the 4 corners.  Next an "X" is cut into the aluminum, a .30" diameter hole drilled in the center, and then gently flex the aluminum.  Now dress up the edges with a #6 file and 600 grit sandpaper.

The cockpit was constructed using some parts from a Verlinden cockpit kit, the kit cockpit and many scratch built detail parts.  The Verlinden kit supplied the floor, seat and lower section of armor plate.  These were joined by the kits upper section of armor plate/head rest.  Some extra styrene was added to the floor so that it would fit snugly into the fuselage.  Fellow IPMS/Silicon Valley Scale Modelers Club member Jim Lewis, showed me how to simulate cloth/canvas by using facial tissue and white glue.  So I used it to make the cushion for the back of the seat.  Nylon ribbon was used as belt straps along with the buckles from the Verlinden kit.  Their stick was also used. 

 
 

There is no fuselage gas tank supplied in the Hasegawa kit, so this will have to be scratch built.  You will also need to scratch up a rack for the radio gear as the kit only gives a solid panel.

Verlinden's photoetched instrument panel was chosen, however their dials were exchanged for Waldron's dials.  The Verlinden photoetched dial covers were missing three bezels, so these had to be made using styrene stock.  The Waldron dials caused some fit problems with the Verlinden panel, so a new panel was laid out using a mix of both 1/32 and 1/48 dials.  (The dials used were: 1/48 - #'s 6,9, 10,13,14, 15, 16, 20, 21, and 26; 1/32 - #'s 2, 8, 18, 19, and 24).  the cockpit rails were also discarded, but the photoetched foot pedals were kept due to their realistic appearance and simplicity of assembly.  All cockpit control handles were made using sheet styrene, aluminum and brass.

The Waldron placards were the right size for almost everything except the top section of the lower control panel.  When parts 4, 10 and 13 were attached to part 16 and then this assembly attached to the bottom of the instrument panel it hit the cockpit floor.  So part 16 was discarded and the rest of the parts were used.

With this being a P-51D-5-NA I could only assume that the aircraft used the early version radio.  The kit has the later version radio, but Verlinden has the early version.  The radio boxes were merely separated and some items added.  Also some cross members were scratchbuilt and attached at a 90' angle to the center line of the fuselage aft of the armor plate/headrest.  The photoetched cross braces were temporarily attached to the other cross braces and then the four radio boxes were set on.  We talk about the radio rack cross bars, which were attached to the fuselage.  This photo was left out, and photo #17 is so black and small you can't see anything.   I'll enclose an enlargement of the painted one and lighten-up the color.

Building all of the small boxes, which fit on both sides of the cockpit, was rather simple.  The placards were glued onto flat styrene stock, trimmed and sanded to shape.  the handles were made from .010" rod stock and the dials added.  A handmade flare gun was built for the Verlinden holder using aluminum stock.  since the gun does not open, no shells were built.

For the N3 gunsight, I used a reduced copy of my 1/24 plans and handmade all 21 tiny parts.

With all the cockpit items complete it is time for a dry fit.  Everything fit like a tailor made suit.  Next comes the painting and weathering so that these parts will be ready for photography and final assembly.  Also at this time I fabricated the oil and water radiators from styrene and screen material.  With the photos out of the way everything was removed from the cockpit so that work could continue on the fuselage.  

Before attaching the fuselage halves together, the tail wheel section was installed onto an aluminum rod and put into place.  Then the halves were taped together so that the movement of the tail wheel could be checked.  With the fuselage halves glued together the tail wheel section is retracted and secured in place with white glue.  this method allows you to work on the fuselage without damaging the tail wheel.  The white glue is dissolved on final assembly and the one piece axle and strut is attached, aligned and glued.

All of the raised detail was removed and recessed lines filled.  Also the fin fillet was removed and the remaining gap filled.  Next openings for the oil and water cooling vents were cut into the underside.  Two vent doors, built out of .015" styrene stock and two push rods, fabricated similar to the actuator arm on the trim tab, were then scratchbuilt.

The kit exhaust stacks are for the birds, so they were removed.  The shroud covers were then hollowed out and some styrene added to allow oval holes to be made.  In order to build new stacks, an alignment jig was built so that holes could be drilled into the backing plates.  From here the stacks were inserted and glued into place.  Then the exhaust pipes were drilled out.

From photos in the Mustang Book by Aero Detail #13, I knew that a new canopy was going to be needed.  It seems that the kit canopy is missing a distinctive bulge just aft of where the canopy fits to the windscreen.  The kit canopy was glued to the frame, sanded inside and out with 180 to 320 grit paper.  Next a Dremel tool was used to grind out the inside of the canopy which was followed by more sanding.  From this a plaster mold was made for vacuforming a new canopy.  Using .030" clear plastic and after several attempts I finally achieved the desired bulge.  You will note holes in the plaster.  these allow your vacuform machine to suck in the hot plastic giving a perfect fit over the mold.  I mention a plaster-of-paris mold, the photo was deleated from the story.  I will add it !

A center line, canopy frame and rivets are penciled in on the mold.  These are used as either scribing guides or masking guides depending on personal preference.

After the new canopy was pulled I sanded it with 1500 grit paper and prepared to add details.  Use caution when applying the rivet details as the lower edge of the canopy frame is usually less than .010" thick.  The final sanding begins with 1200 grit then 1500 grit then 2000.  At this point you are ready to polish it out.  I use Blue Magic for this then follow that up with a dip in Future.  If any scratches are noticed, repeat the sanding - this time with only 1500 then 2000 polishing procedure.  Remember to wash off the Future between each polishing.  You may have to do this several times but the effort is worth the time.  Allow the finished canopy to dry for a few weeks before you mask it off  for painting. 

Verlinden's canopy track guides were too short and did not have a track for the canopy roller guides to fit into, so it became necessary to scratchbuild new ones.  I used square brass channel stock.  Using a spare canopy, I built in the frame work making the patterns as work progressed.  These included the rear track guide and roller guides which fit on each side of the canopy near the leading edges of the front two sides.  Temporarily glue on the two metal tracks then fit the two front roller guides into the tracks and the track guide into the fuselage track.  If everything is properly installed onto the "work" canopy it should slide to the closed position and slide back open.  I had to make some adjustments at this point.  Once this was accomplished it was on to making all bew pieces for the finished canopy using the patterns made with the "working" canopy.  Micro dots of superglue were used to attach the new frame work to the finished canopy.  These parts were painted matt black prior to installation.  Next the working cross bar was installed with white glue making note that it did not hit any of the radio gear.

The prop spinner was reworked by adding the cross bar.  At the same time the kits cuffed blades were reworked and Bill Ferrante made the casting from my master.

With the problems I found in the markings my client lined up Woody Vondracek to produce a totally new dry transfer set of markings.  I have been working with Woody on the markings and with our 6th proof set we think everything is to perfection.  To redraw the Duck I used tracing paper and followed the dot outline on the photo.  The mount was the most troublesome part.  As a side bar, Woody Vondracek owns Precision Dry Transfers and plans to add this set to his line of quality transfers.  His sample dry transfers are worth their weight in gold.  In my years of modeling I have not seen this quality in any decal set.

I talk about how I made the art drawing for the DUCK logo, however the "blow-up" photo was not printed in the story.  In the 3rd paragraph, I mention that the model would be finished in two months.  The story was written in August, 1995.  Due to Woody's constant screw-ups, I did not finish the model until June, 1997. Yes ! 23-long months......waiting !

 

 

Part2

 

 

PART - 1 & 2  "DUCK"
COLOR PHOTOS I.D. LETTERS/NUMBERS
 
POP_MOLD,   RADIO_1,  RADIO_2,   RIVETS_1,    D_1, 2,   3,  4, 5,  6,  7,  8,  9,  9A, 
 
9B,  9C, 9D,  9E,  9F,  9G,  9H,  9I,  9J,  DD_E,  LOGO_1,  LOGO_2,  LOGO_3, 
 
LOGO_4 .  (END)

 

Reviewing Part-2

 

I find that most all the hard work is finished. The fuselage is together, and the elevators are installed. The wings are completed, and you can seen many thousands of rivet's applied to the model. I think there were over 700 rivet applied to the right top wing. There could have been more on the bottom, but I have forgot. I counted some on the fuselage and tail plane. With a safety margin built-in, there's over 5,000 of them !

With the fuselage glued together, it's time to revise all openings, fill panel lines and sand the model using320 to 1200 grit sandpaper.

Photos #1 and #2 show the before and after sequence on the oil cooler vent and the cut-out in the wing root for the flaps, which will be installed in the down position.  Photo #3 shows the aft section of the water radiator vent and the tail wheel opening.

Photo #4 shows a section of the fuselage in the finish process.  To accomplish this I used the following method.  After the fuselage has been sanded with 1200 grit, apply a flat black wash.  This thin wash dries very quickly allowing sanding to be done within an hour.  Use 1200 grit paper for this procedure.  This method shows any and all flaws on the model which may then be corrected.

Next using an airbrush, mist on a medium coat of Tamiya's flat black covering the entire fuselage.  Then mark off where each panel line is to be scribed using 0.5mm diameter / Hg lead in a retractable lead pencil.  Different pieces of .005" thick aluminum, sheet styrene - with different widths - and a 6" steel ruler are used as templates.  Once these Templates are positioned correctly and taped to the model, draw all the panel lines on top of the flat black paint.  this leaves a gray/silver looking line.

Scribing begins by re-taping the templates to the pencil lines one at a time.  To scribe in the panel lines, which go around the fuselage, use 1/16" wide strips of Scotch 3-M #218 fine-line masking tape.  The tape is butted up to the pencil line on both sides, leaving a small gap about 1/64" wide between the tape.  This gap allows entry for your scribing tool, so you can cut out the plastic.  If you do not leave this gap, you will not be able to scribe-in the panel lines properly. 

For 1/32 scale, I make 2 passes with my scribing tool.  As you scribe the panel lines over the black paint you can tell how much plastic you are removing, as the kit plastic is light gray in color.  This most helpful method gives you consistency in the width and depth of each panel line.

I used the Bare Metal Foil #3 and the Clev-Dent #13 scribing tools.  The Clev-Dent is a dental pick and is similar to the Bare Metal tool.  For scribing the access doors I use (in one of my pin-vises) a broken .015" diameter drill bit sharpened to a fine point.  Some people will use a sewing needle for this as well.

Since I had already finished the tail plane to include "all" the rivets they must then be added to the fuselage.  As a side note, this is the first time I ever applied "all" the rivets to a model. photo 5  The rivet lines are drawn on over the black paint and one by one they were added using the .015" drill bit with the sharp point.

All the flat black paint is sanded off showing the results.  A few minor screw-ups made for some panel line and rivet repairs.  Another thin flat black wash was applied with a brush to the fuselage and then resanded.  No more flaws were found, so on to the next step.

The kit windscreen and vacuformed canopy mhad been sanded down with 2000 grit, polished out with "Blue Magic" and dipped into "Future"  They had been drying for a few weeks, so it was time to apply the pre-cut frisket film on the inside of the windscreen and mask off the inside of the canopy, so that the flat black Tamiya paint could be applied.

 

After removing the frisket film, the windscreen was attached to the fuselage, sanded with 1500 grit and the rivets added.  The windscreen was then resanded using 1500 & 2000 grit and polished out with "Blue Magic".  then the exterior of the canopy was masked off and the "SnJ Bare Metal" aluminum paint applied. photo 6 and 7

With the fuselage finished it's now time to start on the wing.  The complete ailerons are molded into the top and bottom sections of the wings.  the ailerons were removed first and revised, including the trim tabs.  Photos8  Photo 9 shows both ends of the flaps.

The kit 108 gal. drop tanks were revised and new accurate pylons including the sway braces were made.  Photo 19 shows one tank painted black with some panel lines scribed in using the fine line tape.  also see photos 11

Necessary revisions to the kit tires/rims and the kits four doors were also made.    photos 12 & 13

The landing light, pitot tube, door hinges and the hydraulic actuator for the main gear doors were scratch built.  photos 14, 15, 16, 17 

The small springs in photo 18 (found in different locations in the wheel wells) are made by wrapping .005" copper wire around a .010" diameter steel wire chucked into a pin vise.  Once there are enough wraps, the coiled wire is compressed together and removed from the steel wire.  The wire is then stretched out to show the coils and cut to it's proper length.  Then bend the ends in a half moon circle making a hook on each end.  These hooked ends are carefully attached to their locations.

What can be said about the wheel well in a  P-51D Mustang...other than it's a complicated project.  Taking just over 200 hours to build in all of the items I think it best to "LET THE PICTURES TELL THE STORY".  photos 19, 20 & 21 see page 38        Photo # 21 was left out of the story.  It's another  shot of the wheel well.  I'll supply a few in color. 

 

For the main landing gear a master was made, then an RTV mold, and finally the cast parts on a tree.  all that had to be done was cut the parts from the tree, file, sand, drill in the necessary holes and assemble the main landing gears.  It took about 17 hours to build each one.  photo 22

A penny for your thoughts.  "Guess where all those 13 (big) parts go? photo 23  Hint hint look at photo 21 on page 38.  If you can't guess I'll let you know in part 3.  You will also see the finished wing, painting, applying "Woody's" dry transfers and the final assembly. Yes! the parts in photo #23 went into the wheel well in photo #21, which is not in the story.

Happy modelling

Rodney

 

   

 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

Part3

 
PART - 3 "DUCK"
COLOR PHOTOS I.D. LETTERS/NUMBERS
 
ALL HAVE "D_"   ( IE : D_85; D_130 )
 
D_52,  53,  54,  55,  59,  61,  62,  63,  64,  67,  68,  83,  84,  85,  86,  87,  88,  90,  91, 
 
 94,  95,  96,  97,  98,  100,  101,  102,  135,  136,  110, 111,  112,  133,  121,  122, 
 
125,  126,  127,  128,  129,  130,  131,  132,  137C,  138,  140,  141,  142,  143,  144, 
 
145,  146,  113, d_114C,  D_124,  D_27,  117,  123,  119,  119C,  FIN_1,  2,  and 3C.   
 
(END)            DELEATE         D_119.
 
 

 

DONALD R. EMERSON'S P-51D-5-NA MUSTANG

PART - THREE

BY: RODNEY WILLIAMS

 

How does one try to complete a story after a time laps of over five years ? It's almost impossible ! While building this model, I wrote down technical data, which would aid me in the final story. I also drew preliminary drawing of many items, and jotted down measurements. (IE: The P-51 wheel wells). Later, I had planned to draw professional architectural-style drawings for the final segment. Unfortunately, this did not transpire, due to the IPMS/USA JOURNAL EDITOR, MR. DAVID VON ALMEN'S refusal to print my eight drawings for my P-40E story, which was published in the Journal's January/February, 1997 magazine. When I build for clients, I keep a daily hour log, including what I did that day. I reviewed my log, and noted that I spent over 60 hours producing the eight drawings and 8-1/2 pages of technical data; (measurements, etc.). Tell me why I should draw any more drawings, when there's no guarantee they will be in print.....NO THANK YOU !

 

With lot's of photo's to look at, I'll high light the rest of the story, and let the photos do the talking.

 

Many years ago, I started making my own scribing templates. I selected empty beer/cola cans for my material, which is about .005" thick. This thin aluminum is ideal, as it will bend around many curves on your model. It will also crinkle, which ruins the template......so if you make your own, use caution ! Once I have these templates positioned correctly, I tape them to the model, using ordinary "high-tack" masking tape. The Scotch - #230 "low tack" drafting tape does not hold the scribing temp on the model that good ! The "wing-root" temp worked like a charm, as did the others for access maintenance doors, etc.

 

The main gear door pivot hinges were fashioned from "K & S" brass stock, while the latches were made from "K & S" aluminum square-tubing, and flat stock. They are attached with super-glue.  By the way........I use only super-glue (s.g) on my models and no other type of fillers.

 

The hydraulic actuator's for the main gear doors were made from selected sizes of brass, aluminum, and stainless-steel tubing. The small coiled springs were made from .005" diameter copper wire. I found this wire in the worn-out motors on kid's "slot-cars," which race around a little track in your living room during the holidays.

 

The arm-brackets for the 108 gallon drop tanks were fashioned from "K & S" flat brass stock. The first bracket took the longest to make, but once it looked like the real thing, heck, the other three was a snap to build. I drilled holes into the brass, then slipped in the round styrene rod, which had the little round disk super-glued on the other end. On final assembly, I attached the pylons to the wings, then the brackets, and then the tank. With proper alignment achieved, I carefully slid the round rod down to the tank. Once the little disk hit the tank, I applied some thinned-down white glue around the disk, and on the bracket. Presto they are finished !

 

The pitot tube, and the .050" cal. guns, are like many items. They were built using a variety of materials.

You will note that I included rivets around the installed "kit" windscreen, and the vac-u-formed one piece canopy and frame. If you try this, please use "caution !" I use a very sharp pointed needle, chucked into my pin-vise: (see pin-vise photo with the pitot tube in it). If you push too hard on the pin-vise on the injection-mold clear plastic, it can crack, and or craze....."needless-to-say;" you have to replace the windscreen. The vac-plastic is quite a bit thinner than the injected plastic and is much softer. You push too hard, and your pin will go through the plastic. You may be able to repair the hole with super-glue, if not, then you must start over with a new vac-canopy.....that's no fun at all.

 

"HOW NOT TO FOG YOUR WINDSCREENS"

 

I tack it to the fuselage using "micro-dots" of super-glue, using a .006" diameter brass rod, which has a tiny loop on the end.  I apply Future Floor Wax; (F.F.W.) several times to the area where the windscreen meets the fuselage.   There is always a fine-line gap once the f.f.w. dries.  Now you can apply all the super-glue desired, as the Future stops the super-glue fumes from entering the inside of the windscreen.  After the windscreen is sand flush with the fuselage, add your panel lines and rivets, then final sanding.  Look at the close up of the finished windscreen and you will see what I mean.....it looks like a real Mustang.

 

With good quality photos, which I took of a P-51D at the San Jose, California air terminal, including the wheel wells, and most important - "measurements." I built a "master" for the main gear, including the torque links and the arms, which attach to the upper section of the gear strut, and holds the outer gear door in place. I had a guy make the gears, using what they call; "The lost wax casting process." It's expensive, but the end results are to perfection. There's no pot marks, like you find in the pot-metal castings, and they don't bend ! The upper strut, which fits into the wheel well was made from different diameters of aluminum tubing.

   

The three under-wing navigation lights were created by using clear round acrylic rod, or I may have used colored rod......can't remember !! If it were clear stock, I used Tamiya's clear red, green, and amber to color the lens. The red and green wing-tip lights were made from colored stock.

 

Aluminum tubing stock was inserted into the leading edges of both wings for the gun tubes. Then lots of super-glue was added. Once nice and dry, I used #4 & #6 files to flare-in the contour so they looked like the real machine gun flarings on the Mustang.

 

JUST REMEMBER

 

When you plan to do a bare-metal model using SnJ Spray Metal Aluminum paint !  YOU MUST sand the model down to a 2000 grit finish.  If you stop at 600, or even 1200 grit, you will see all kinds of scratch marks.  Once my model is completed, I start this sanding process.  Begin with 600, then use 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and finally 2000.  Its time consuming, but you will be rewarded with a flawless finish.

 

On a 1/24 scale P-51D, and on my conversion from the "D to a B;" I got the bright idea to paint the wings and fuselage separate. This worked out A-OK, so I did the same thing to this model. Once finished, I then joined the two sections together in my alignment jig and super-glued it together. After final sanding and touching up the panel lines and rivets, I mask it off and sprayed on the SnJ Aluminum paint. It worked out just great !

 

"AIR BRUSHING - DECALS - DRY TRANSFERS"

 

I like the idea of air-brushing on my insignias, and fuselage call letters; etc. This way, one does not have to worry about the items sinking down into certain panel lines and rivets, like decals. On many models, I run a little home made plastic bevel-edge tool over my wet decals in the panel lines and push in any rivets with a round pointed wooden toothpick; ( the sharp point on the toothpick has been rounded off ).

 

On the "DUCK" as I call this model, this was my first time using "dry-transfers;" (D.T.s). Experimentation is @ hand. I cleaned the left side of my second P-51D kit and did not sand the plastic. The Duck logo, the kill marks, and the data block went on to perfection. On a pre-sanded wing; (2000 grit) and air-brushed with SnJ Aluminum, I applied more D.T.s. Some went on OK, while others left the sticky adhesive on the paint, or lifted the paint from the plastic. The paint was very dry, as it had been on the spare wing for several weeks. Low tack drafting tape will not lift the SnJ paint off the model, after only one-two hours of drying time. I got into a real dilemma on this model. I had to repaint several areas over. My client finally hired a decal maker, and I finished the model using decals. More on this story, when I display my 1/32 P-40E on "ARC."

 

My work log says I spent 2,000+ hours on the DUCK. There were over 400 hours just building all the parts for the wheel wells and over 100 hours on the "master" for the gears.

 

In closing, I want to say "thank you all" for your comments on my F2G stories. There are more model photo stories coming !

 

Rodney

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There was never a "PART-III."  This is due to the stupidity of the Journal Editor, Mr. David Von Almen.  Here in Northern California, we hear a commentator by the name of "Paul Harvey," on "KGO" talk radio.  At 6:00 p.m. each week night he comes up with the slogan:  "AND NOW YOU KNOW THE REST OF THE STORY."  After I finish this story on the "DUCK," I'm doing a story on my 1/32 scale P-40E.  This is when you will hear the rest of the "True Story.  
 
The book:  "DONALD'S STORY."  It stated that Lt. Donald R. Emerson came home to America in the summer of 1944.  His original aircraft with the Donald Duck logo bearing serial number of "413317" was given to another pilot.  Prior to his return to England, he was given a promotion to Captain.  Rejoining his group, Donald was assigned another Mustang, his last one.  It was a P-51D  "VF * D" with a serial number of 415054.  This is why I put Lt. Donald R. Emerson on my model, as he did not fly said aircraft as a Captain.

 

 

 

 
On Christmas Day, 1944, Donald was returning home from a mission.  His last message was:  "He was on the deck and heading home."  As he crossed over into Allied territory, he was hit by flak.  His plane was seen crash-landing near the Holland/Belgium boarder, which was occupied by the British Army.  The medical report stated that he was killed by enemy gunfire while crossing over the Germans' lines, and his death was believed to have been instantaneous.  
 
This is a sad ending, but it came to tens of thousands of people, just like Donald.  In fact the war killed millions of us humans.
 
There will never be "Peace On Earth;" until the human race is eradicated from this planet !  We have been killing one another from the beginning of time, and we have giving the "EARTH," its' death sentence.  If we do not change A.S.A.P;  we will not have any "Great, Great, Great Grandchildren."
 
 

     

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

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Building Emerson's P-51D-5-NA Mustang.  This being my 5th Mustang you might be thinking "Mustang Nut", but not so!  Bent wing all the way, dating back to when Dad worked on the Corsairs at Goodyear Aircraft Corporation in Akron, Ohio.  When this Mustang is done it will be the last one for a long time.  However, with this being Mustang #5, I had the advantage of all the drawings, correct measurements and photos from my previous research.

According to "Warbirds Worldwide" book #28 there is only one photo of Emerson's P-051D-5-NA.  this picture, which was published in their book #28, was taken from a B-17 during the war.  Mike Meek, a member of IPMS/Silicon Valley, loaned me his copy of the book so that I could take some close-up pictures.  The Story in the book says that Emerson flew the aircraft but while on Stateside leave around July'44, the aircraft was assigned to another pilot.  Before his return to Europe he was promoted to Captain.  Then on December 25th, 1944, in his new aircraft, Capt. Donald R. Emerson was killed in action.  This means that "Captian" Donald R. Emerson never flew this particular P-51D-5-NA.  

Now, what I.D. should be put on the model?  Lieutenant or Captain!  Remember, never trust art drawings!!  In the new Mustang book #13 by Aero Detail on page 54 the drawing shows this particular P-51, serial number 413317, as being number 413917.  To add to the confusion the enlarged "Duck" drawing is not exactly like the small one on the side of the aircraft and neither one looks exactly like the one on the real airplane.  The pictures made from Mike Meek's book also showed that the "Donald Duck" is different from the Superscale decal sheet #32-6.  Moreover, the Text with the drawings is labeled Major Emerson, September 1944.  The call letters of "VF*B" on the fuselage are, however, correct.

Before we begin building we must talk about handmade parts and superglue.  Well, when speaking of handmade parts be assured that, that is just what they are - handmade.  The tools used to create these parts consist of 2 Dremel motors, several files - ranging from a rough bastard cut to a superfine #6 cut - Flex-I-Files, cutting knives, and my brain.  There is no drill press or machinist lathe, but maybe someday.  As for superglue, it is for building, filling - gaps and seams - and tacking parts together.  I use the thin for tacking and the thick for filling.  (Here is a modeling tip to use when using Zip-Kicker.  attach  

 
 
a hypodermic needle to the bottle.  after about 5 to 10 seconds apply a drop or two of the kicker them immediately apply water to the area.  Remove the water and apply more super glue.  The glue will not bubble and you will be ready to cut, file and sand.  One thing to remember when working with superglue, never apply it unless you can start the cut, file and sand process immediately.  after a day or tow superglue gets as hard as steel and is extremely difficult to work with.

Work on this particular Mustang begins with the fuselage instead of the usual wheel wells and wings.  The client wanted the rudder and other flying surfaces off set.  This made it necessary to remove the rudder from both halves of the fuselage.  To accomplish this the halves were taped and the rudder section was tacked with superglue.  this method gives you the correct angle for the rudder once it has been separated from the fuselage.

The leading edge of the rudder was filled with white styrene and sanded to shape.  A new trim tab was fashioned from .090" flat styrene after the kit tab was cut away.  Then an angle plate was made from .050" aluminum.  It was glued into a pre-recessed location at the bottom of the trim tab.  Next a hole was drilled into the forward area of the rudder.  Inserted into this hole is a piece of .030"o.d. / .015" i.d. stainless steel tubing.  An actuator arm was fashioned by using a piece of .015" o.d. brass rod flattened on the end and filed to shape.  Then a -101" diameter hole was drilled in the flattened end of the brass rod.  Into this hole and the matching hole in the plate on the trim tab insert a piece of .010" o.d. white styrene rod.  The rod is then cut to length and mushroomed over using a heating iron.  

Now we move to the inside of the fuselage.  the rib sections and the tailwheel well are constructed using flat styrene stock.  As for the carburetor air scoop intake I used 1/2" round tube.  The holes for the air filters on both sides of the fuselage were drilled out then thinned to scale.  Attached into these holes is fine stainless steel screen.  As a side note on the use of screen for detailing, never place a screen inside the carburetor air scoop intake as there never was one installed in this location.

While working on the inside details I decided to build in transportation supports.  These come in handy when traveling to and from contests.  Just make front and back support brackets in your model carrying box, remove the prop and rudder, insert tubing through 
 
these brackets into your model and you're ready to go.

The tailwheel assembly from the kit was tossed out keeping only the tire.  To this was added  anew rim, built from telescoping aluminum tubing, and an axle and support shaft crafted from .060" o.d. round brass rod.  The rest of the assembly was made from styrene and aluminum.  The doors were fashioned from .005" thick aluminum sheet stock (beer / cola cans) and styrene.  Before joining the fuselage the tailwheel got it's first coat of paint.

Next came the tail plane.  The two halves of the stabilizer / elevator were joined together then all of the raised rivets, panel lines and access doors were removed.  Then the trailing edges were thinned to scale.  Using pencil lines to draw on the elevator I took my jeweler's saw with an extra fine blade I separated the elevators from the stabilizers.  At this point the trailing edge of the stabilizer and the leading edge of the elevator were filled with styrene and sanded to shape.  A new trim tab, built out of styrene, was added.  It included the cutouts, hinges etc. 

Once the sanding was completed - I used up to 1500 grit wet / dry sandpaper - it was time to replace the panel lines. rivets and access doors.  After drawing the lines for rivets, panels and doors, masking tape is butted together leaving a small gap for the scribing tool.  Each panel line is scribed three times.  For the rivets, I use a sharpened needle point .010" diameter drill bit to push gently into the plastic.  Once these applications are completed the area is resanded with 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper.

Since my tri-tool scribing template has no rectangular patterns I use templates made from .005" aluminum can stock.  These were made by drawing the desired patterns on the aluminum, scribing around them, then drilling .015" holes in the 4 corners.  Next an "X" is cut into the aluminum, a .30" diameter hole drilled in the center, 
 
 
and then gently flex the aluminum.  Now dress up the edges with a #6 file and 600 grit sandpaper.

The cockpit was constructed using some parts from a Verlinden cockpit kit, the kit cockpit and many scratch built detail parts.  The Verlinden kit supplied the floor, seat and lower section of armor plate.  These were joined by the kits upper section of armor plate/head rest.  Some extra styrene was added to the floor so that it would fit snugly into the fuselage.  Fellow IPMS/Silicon Valley Scale Modelers Club member Jim Lewis, showed me how to simulate cloth/canvas by using facial tissue and white glue.  So I used it to make the cushion for the back of the seat.  Nylon ribbon was used as belt straps along with the buckles from the Verlinden kit.  Their stick was also used. 

There is no fuselage gas tank supplied in the Hasegawa kit, so this will have to be scratch built.  You will also need to scratch up a rack for the radio gear as the kit only gives a solid panel.

Verlinden's photoetched instrument panel was chosen, however their dials were exchanged for Waldron's dials.  The Verlinden photoetched dial covers were missing three bezels, so these had to be made using styrene stock.  The Waldron dials caused some fit problems with the Verlinden panel, so a new panel was laid out using a mix of both 1/32 and 1/48 dials.  (The dials used were: 1/48 - #'s 6,9, 10,13,14, 15, 16, 20, 21, and 26; 1/32 - #'s 2, 8, 18, 19, and 24).  the cockpit rails were also discarded, but the photoetched foot pedals were kept due to their realistic appearance and simplicity of assembly.  All cockpit control handles were made using sheet styrene, aluminum 

 

and brass.

The Waldron placards were the right size for almost everything except the top section of the lower control panel.  When parts 4, 10 and 13 were attached to part 16 and then this assembly attached to the bottom of the instrument panel it hit the cockpit floor.  So part 16 was discarded and the rest of the parts were used.

With this being a P-51D-5-NA I could only assume that the aircraft used the early version radio.  The kit has the later version radio, but Verlinden has the early version.  The radio boxes were merely separated and some items added.  Also some cross members were scratchbuilt and attached at a 90' angle to the center line of the fuselage aft of the armor plate/headrest.  The photoetched cross braces were temporarily attached to the other cross braces and then the four radio boxes were set on.  We talk about the radio rack cross bars, which were attached to the fuselage.  This photo was left out, and photo #17 is so black and small you can't see anything.   I'll enclose an enlargement of the painted one and lighten-up the color.

Building all of the small boxes, which fit on both sides of the cockpit, was rather simple.  The placards were glued onto flat styrene stock, trimmed and sanded to shape.  the handles were made from .010" rod stock and the dials added.  A handmade flare gun was built  
 
for the Verlinden holder using aluminum stock.  since the gun does not open, no shells were built.

For the N3 gunsight, I used a reduced copy of my 1/24 plans and handmade all 21 tiny parts.

With all the cockpit items complete it is time for a dry fit.  everything fit like a tailor made suit.  Next comes the painting and weathering so that these parts will be ready for photography and final assembly.  Also at this time I fabricated the oil and water radiators from styrene and screen material.  With the photos out of the way everything was removed from the cockpit so that work could continue on the fuselage.  Before attaching the fuselage halves together, the tail wheel section was installed onto an aluminum rod and put into place.  Then the halves were taped together so that the movement of the tail wheel could be checked.  With the fuselage halves glued together the tail wheel section is retracted and secured in place with white glue.  this method allows you to work on the fuselage without damaging the tail wheel.  The white glue is dissolved on final assembly and the one piece axle and strut is attached, aligned and glued.

All of the raised detail was removed and recessed lines filled.  Also the fin fillet was removed and the remaining gap filled.  Next openings for the oil and water cooling vents were cut into the underside.  Two vent doors, built out of .015" styrene stock and two push rods, fabricated similar to the actuator arm on the trim tab, were then scratchbuilt.

The kit exhaust stacks are for the birds, so they were removed.  The shroud covers were then hollowed out and some styrene added to allow oval holes to be made.  In order to build new stacks, an alignment jig was built so that holes could be  
 
drilled into the backing plates.  From here the stacks were inserted and glued into place.  Then the exhaust pipes were drilled out.

From photos in the Mustang Book by Aero Detail #13, I knew that a new canopy was going to be needed.  It seems that the kit canopy is missing a distinctive bulge just aft of where the canopy fits to the windscreen.  the kit canopy was glued to the frame, sanded inside and out with 180 to 320 grit paper.  Next a Dremel tool was used to grind out the inside of the canopy which was followed by more sanding.  From this a plaster mold was made for vacuforming a new canopy.  Using .030" clear plastic and after several attempts I finally achieved the desired bulge.  You will note holes in the plaster.  these allow your vacuform machine to suck in the hot plastic giving a perfect fit over the mold.  I mention a plaster-of-paris mold, the photo was deleated from the story.  I will add it !

A center line, canopy frame and rivets are penciled in on the mold.  These are used as either scribing guides or masking guides depending on personal preference.

After the new canopy was pulled I sanded it with 1500 grit paper and prepared to add details.  Use caution when applying the rivet details as the lower edge of the canopy frame is usually less than .010" thick.  The final sanding begins with 1200 grit then 1500 grit then 2000.  At this point you are ready to polish it out.  I use Blue Magic for this then follow that up with a dip in Future.  If any scratches are noticed, repeat the sanding - this time with only 1500 then 2000 polishing procedure.  Remember to wash off the Future between each polishing.  You may have to do this several times but the effort is worth the time.  Allow the finished canopy to dry for a few weeks before you mask it off  for painting. 

Verlinden's canopy track guides were too short and did not have a track for the canopy roller guides to fit into, so it became necessary to scratchbuild new ones.  I used square brass channel stock.  Using a spare canopy, I built in the frame work making the patterns as work progressed.  These included the rear track guide and roller guides which fit on each side of the canopy near the leading edges of the front two sides.  Temporarily glue on the two metal tracks then fit the two front roller guides into the tracks and the track guide into the fuselage track.  If everything is properly installed onto the "work" canopy it should slide to the closed position and slide back open.  I had to make some adjustments at this point.  Once this was accomplished it was on to making all bew pieces for the finished canopy

 using the patterns made with the "working" canopy.  Micro dots of 

 

 

 

 
superglue were used to attach the new frame work to the finished canopy.  These parts were painted matt black prior to installation.  Next the working cross bar was installed with white glue making note that it did not hit any of the radio gear.

The prop spinner was reworked by adding the cross bar.  At the same time the kits cuffed blades were reworked and Bill Ferrante made the casting from my master.

With the problems I found in the markings my client lined up Woody Vondracek to produce a totally new dry transfer set of markings.  I have been working with Woody on the markings and with our 6th proof set we think everything is to perfection.  To redraw the Duck I used tracing paper and followed the dot outline on the photo.  The mount was the most troublesome part.  As a side bar, Woody Vondracek owns Precision Dry Transfers and plans to add this set to his line of quality transfers.  His sample dry transfers are worth their weight in gold.  In my years of modeling I have not seen this quality in any decal set.

I talk about how I made the art drawing for the DUCK logo, however the "blow-up" photo was not printed in the story.  In the 3rd paragraph, I mention that the model would be finished in two months.  The story was written in August, 1995.  Due to Woody's constant screw-ups, I did not finish the model until June, 1997. Yes ! 23-long months......waiting !

 

Part 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With the fuselage glued together, it's time to revise all openings, fill panel lines and sand the model using320 to 1200 grit sandpaper.

Photos #1 and #2 show the before and after sequence on the oil cooler vent and the cut-out in the wing root for the flaps, which will be installed in the down position.  Photo #3 shows the aft section of the water radiator vent and the tail wheel opening.

Photo #4 shows a section of the fuselage in the finish process.  To accomplish this I used the following method.  After the fuselage has been sanded with 1200 grit, apply a flat black wash.  This thin wash dries very quickly allowing sanding to be done within an hour.  Use 1100 grit paper for this procedure.  This method shows any and all flaws on the model which may then be corrected.

Next using an airbrush, mist on a medium coat of Tamiya's flat black covering the entire fuselage.  Then mark off where each panel line is to be scribed using 0.5mm diameter / Hg lead in a retractable lead pencil.  Different pieces of .005" thick aluminum, sheet styrene - with different widths - and a 6" steel ruler are used as templates.  Once these Templates are positioned correctly and taped to the model, draw all the panel lines on top of the flat black paint.  this leaves a gray/silver looking line.

Scribing begins by re-taping the templates to the pencil lines one at a time.  To scribe in the panel lines, which go around the fuselage, use 1/16" wide strips of Scotch 3-M #218 fine-line masking tape.  The tape is butted up to the pencil line on both sides, leaving a small gap about 1/64" wide between the tape.  This gap allows entry for your scribing tool, so you can cut out the plastic.  If you do not leave this 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
gap, you will not be able to scribe-in the panel lines properly. 

For 1/32 scale, I make 2 passes with my scribing tool.  As you scribe the panel lines over the black paint you can tell how much plastic you are removing, as the kit plastic is light gray in color.  This most helpful method gives you consistency in the width and depth of each panel line.

I used the Bare Metal Foil #3 and the Clev-Dent #13 scribing tools.  The Clev-Dent is a dental pick and is similar to the Bare Metal tool.  For scribing the access doors I use (in one of my pin-vises) a broken .015" diameter drill bit sharpened to a fine point.  Some people will use a sewing needle for this as well.

Since I had already finished the tail plane to include "all" the rivets they must then be added to the fuselage.  As a side note, this is the first time I ever applied "all" the rivets to a model. photo 5  The rivet lines are drawn on over the black paint and one by one they were added using the .015" drill bit with the sharp point.

All the flat black paint is sanded off showing the results.  A few minor screw-ups made for some panel line and rivet repairs.  Another thin flat black wash was applied with a brush to the fuselage and then resanded.  No more flaws were found, so on to the next step.

The kit windscreen and vacuformed canopy mhad been sanded down with 2000 grit, polished out with "Blue Magic" and dipped into "Future"  They had been drying for a few weeks, so it was time to apply the pre-cut frisket film on the inside of the windscreen and mask off the inside of the canopy, so that the flat black Tamiya paint could be applied.

After removing the frisket film, the windscreen was attached, sanded with 1500 grit and the rivets added.  The windscreen was then resanded using 1500 & 2000 grit and polished out with "Blue Magic".  then the exterior of the canopy was masked off and the "SnJ Bare Metal" aluminum paint applied. photo 6 and 7

With the fuselage finished it's now time to start on the wing.  The complete ailerons are molded into the top and bottom sections of the wings.  the ailerons were removed first and revised, including the trim tabs.  Photos8  Photo 9 shows both ends of the flaps.

The kit 108 gal. drop tanks were revised and new accurate pylons including the sway braces were made.  Photo 19 shows one tank painted black with some panel lines scribed in using the fine line tape.  also see photos 11

Necessary revisions to the kit tires/rims and the kits four doors were also made.    photos 12 & 13

The landing laight, pitot tube, door hinges and the hydralic actuator for the main gear doors were scratch built.  photos 14, 15, 16, 17 

The small springs in photo 18 (found in different locations in the wheel wells) are made by wrapping .005" copper wire around a .010" diameter steel wire chucked into a pin vise.  Once there are enough wraps, the coiled wire is compressed together and removed from the steel wire.  The wire is then stretched out to show the coils and cut to it's proper length.  Then bend the ends in a half moon circle making a hook on each end.  These hooked ends are carefully attached to their locations.

What can be said about the wheel well ina  P-51D Mustang...other than it's a complicated project.  Taking just over 200 hours to build in all of the items I think it best to "LET THE PICTURES TELL THE STORY".  photos 19, 20 & 21 see page 38        

For the main landing gear a master was made, then an RTV mold, and finally the cast parts on a tree.  all that had to be done was cut the parts from the tree, file, sand, drill in the necessary holes and assemble the main landing gears.  It took about 17 hours to build each one.  photo 22

A penny for your thoughts.  "Guess where all those 13 (big) parts go? photo 23  Hint hint look at photo 21 on page 38.  If you can't guess I'll let you know in part 3.  You will also see the finished wing, painting, applying "Woody's" dry transfers and the final assembly.

Happy modelling

Rodney
 

Photos and text 2001 by Rodney Williams

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