Subject: Re: MiG-23 Kitbash Submission
From: "Steve Bamford ARC" <[email-masked]>
To: "Andrew D." <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2004 01:37:51 -0700

Hi Andrew,
Thanks for sending in your MiG-23 article.  I'll e-mail you when your
article goes on ARC....currently articles are taking about 3 weeks from the
time they are sent in until they go on ARC.

Steve Bamford
Aircraft Resource Center
http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com

Live like there is no tomorrow;
Love like you've never been hurt.
Work like you don't need the money.
Dance like nobody's watching.
Sing like nobody's listening.
Live like it's Heaven on Earth.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andrew D." <[email-masked]>
To: <[email-masked]>
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2004 10:44 PM
Subject: MiG-23 Kitbash Submission

> Hi Steve,
>
> I hope this isn't too much...I SWEAR I tried to keep it short, but there
was
> just so much done to this bird....anyway, I've put everything in order as
> per the template so it matches with the text, including "02.jpg" last.
Hope
> I'm not shunned for this one, especially since it's my first-ever ARC
> submission!  --Andrew Desautels (aka Andrew D. the Jolly Rogers guy)
>
> Gallery Template #13
>
> 1/72 MiG-23MLD Flogger K
> Hasegawa/Italeri Kitbash
>
> by Andrew Desautels
> --------------------
>
>
> THE KITBASH
> We modelmakers often see different things in the same kits.  It is all so
> true that one man's garbage is another man's treasure.  I was reminded of
> this when I eagerly bought Italeri's MiG-23ML with high hopes of building
it
> as a MiG-23MLD Flogger K.  There are many who love this kit, but I gave up
> building mine after only 3 hours.  For  me, it just wasn't even close to
> what I was looking for.
>
> Despite its age and numerous shortcomings, I have always loved the
Hasegawa
> 1/72 MiG-23 kit (which is really a -23M or -23MF Flogger B despite the
box's
> claim of a -23S).  It does need plenty of work to be a decent Flogger B,
and
> a LOT of work to become a decent Flogger K, which was my aim.
>
> I finally decided that although I couldn't use the Italeri airframe, there
> were several very good parts worth keeping...parts which, combined with a
> Hasegawa kit, plus the wonderful Eduard MiG-23 etched brass set for the
> Italeri kit, plus a resin seat, could make a very convincing Flogger K.
The
> result far exceeded my expectations.
>
> In the end, every single kit piece used was modified or detailed with the
> exception of the centerline fuel tank, twin ventral pylons, landing
lights,
> and the ventral fin from the Hasegawa kit.  Here is the kit parts
breakdown:
>
> Hasegawa 1/72 MiG-23: PARTS TO DISCARD
> -vertical tail
> -radome
> -all missiles
> -all missile rails
> -all cockpit detail (seat, panel, control stick attached to nosegear)
> -nose wheels
> -large, curved maingear doors attached to maingear
> -pitot probe (optional; better to make from brass rod due to length and
> lack of strength)
>
> Italeri 1/72 MiG-23: PARTS TO KEEP
> -vertical tail
> -radome
> -wing glove pylons
> -IR sensor under nose
> -dorsal chaff/flare dispensers
> -R-60/AA-8 "Aphid" missiles
> -Elongated "bulge" on forward fuselage left side above nosegear door
>
> Other parts used include:
> -R-60/AA-8 missile rails reshaped and modified from the spare parts
> bin(probably came
> from the Italeri MiG-29)
> -mainwheels from Heller's Mirage F1 (became the enlarged nosewheels).
> -True Details KM-1 seat, headrest shape modified
>
> At this point I should point out Eduard's terrific detail set made for
> Italeri's Mig-23ML/MLD kit.  There have been Eduard detail sets which did
> not impress me, but this is not one of them.  It is LOADED with detail,
> every sensor, probe, antenna and subtle airframe detail imaginable, plus a
> fantastic cockpit.  On top of that, plenty of wonderful detail for the
> maingear wells, which are thoroughly lacking on both kits!  This set has a
> higher price, and no wonder, for all the tons of goodies you get!!  It's
> well worth the investment, and I'm a  frugal builder!
>
> There's no way to keep this as short as I'd want and yet explain the
> changes.  I've done my best to concisely explain how this was done...and
if
> it's still too long, well, you can all still enjoy the photos:-)
>
> FUSELAGE
> It all starts simply with the fuselage halves and wings.  Even so, there
is
> plenty to be done.  The aft end of the upper airbrakes must be reshaped.
> The small cable conduits that run on the lower part of the empennage are
> filed off and sanded smooth, then the network of holes must be drilled out
> on the bottom instead of only being recessed.  The small intakes on either
> side of the vertical fin can be cut away and replaced with slightly
> flattened styrene tube to better represent the real thing.  The Italeri
> vertical tail installs nicely into the slot for the original tail, but
most
> of that slot must still be filled.  Drill a hole on the trailing edge for
> the ILS antenna to be added from the Eduard set, but don't add it until
> last.
>
> Once the tailplanes are attached, they still need extension "tabs" on the
> trailing edge near the engine exhaust.
> Locating holes should be drilled for the Italeri wing glove missile pylons
> and the dorsal chaff/flare dispensers.  Also add the "plumbing"
attachments
> for the underwing fuel tanks, even if you don't build it with wing tanks.
>
> The centerline pylon should not have an angled leading edge as it does, so
> plastic must be added to it to "square" it off.  A tremendous amount of
> detailing can be added to the maingear wells starting with the Eduard
brass
> set, but still can benefit from lots of wiring and tubing.  The brass
pieces
> are for the smaller Italeri wells, which I can't help but think are
> undersized, although I haven't checked...in any case, the problem is
easily
> remedied with extra sheet and strip styrene.  While on the bottom, also
> reshape the tip of the ventral fin base, and also scratch build the twin
> bulges that are just forward of it (wish I knew what they are called;
> sorry!).
>
> Finally, the most important way to make sure your Flogger K is really a
> Flogger K is to cut out the "dogtooth" notch between the wing glove and
the
> intake wall, then fill the resulting holes with plastic and file and sand
it
> all smooth.
>
> The Eduard set has an INCREDIBLE bunch of detailing for the afterburner
can,
> which even makes it much deeper and full of detail the whole way down.
The
> only problem is it's for the smaller Italeri engine (funny that many
Italeri
> parts are smaller since the airframe itself seems slightly larger than the
> Hasegawa), so I extended the diameter with reinforced masking tape and
added
> strip styrene details.  I made sure the added detail would be on the top
of
> the engine(directly under the tail) and therefore less noticable.
>
> FORWARD FUSELAGE
> The only complex part of this is the installation of the Eduard brass
pieces
> which make up a terrific cockpit.  I still added more switches, knobs, and
> other bits to the main instrument panel to make it more 3-dimensional.
Once
> this is all together, and the HUD/gunsight installed, the Italeri radome
is
> fitted.  It is slightly too large at first, but I was surprised at how
easy
> it was to blend it with some vigorous sanding.  The Italeri radome
> definitely has a much more bulbous shape rather than the sleek, undersized
> Hasegawa radome.  I liken it to getting the shape of the nose right if
> sculpting a famous person; if it isn't right, the rest of it looks wrong,
> too.
>
> The Eduard set comes with some canopy framing including a single rear view
> mirror...but there are TWO rear view mirrors, which I scratch built.
>
> Once the forward fuselage assembly is attached to the main fuselage, you
can
> busy yourself with all the antennae, intakes, and probes that make up the
> forward fuselage.  Every MiG-23 variant has a different position for the
ILS
> antenna under the nose.  I used the Hasegawa kit ILS antenna, but cut off
> the end and inserted the delicate yet brilliant ILS antenna tip from the
> Eduard set.  Also add the Italeri bulge to the left side next to the
> nosegear bay and blend it in good.
>
> I was glad to be able to use the transparent IR sensor from the Italeri
kit,
> which comes with the early (MiG-23M, MF) and later(ML, MLD) versions.
Some
> scratch building around it was still required, and then on to the
> blade-style IFF antenna in front of the windscreen, tiny "cheek" mounted
> intakes and AOA and Yaw sensors make the front end complete except for the
> pitot tube.
>
> While the Hasegawa pitot tube is nicely molded, it lacks strength, partly
> because it is so long and is more apt to be broken off than, say, the
> shorter pitot on an F-14.  I made mine from brass rod, added the tiny
vortex
> generators with .005" sheet styrene(you can hardly see them, but I know
> they're there...).
>
> I'm an unusual builder in that I prefer to add all the antennae, probes,
and
> other delicate items before painting.  I think it looks less real to glue
> tiny parts on after painting, so I spray on the regular paint scheme, then
> repaint the tiny items with a fine brush.  It just takes knowing how to
> handle your aircraft, and I've had absolutely no problems with stuff
> breaking off during painting or final assembly.
>
> PYLONS, DISPENSORS, MISSILE RAILS AND GEAR DOORS
> The centerline pylon was already installed, so now on to the two weapons
> pylons on either side of it.  The shape of these in the Hasegawa kit are
> fine, but remove the inaccurate missile rails molded to them.  The Italeri
> wing glove pylons for the AA-7 Apex's are good with some added detail,
with
> the dorsal chaff/flare dispensers also being detailed.
>
> I was originally going to have this bird armed to the teeth with twin
> R-60/AA-8 rails on each of the ventral weapons pylons, but I finally
reined
> myself in to arm it to match the available photo of "White 64", with a
> single R-60 on each pylon.  The resulting missile rails were reshaped
items
> from the spares box, I think from the Italeri MiG-29.
>
> The Eduard set comes with a nice touch for the maingear legs, namely
> replacement items for the two sections of maingear doors which remain
> attached to the gear.  They both must be bent to curves, easily done with
> the Xacto blade handle.  The other maingear doors need to have their
detail
> redone by removing the old with a roto-tool and rebuilding with styrene,
> especially the lower ones.
>
> LANDING GEAR
> I just mentioned the two gear doors which are attached to the maingear
legs.
>   I must now point out that the smaller of these doors is already molded
to
> the Hasegawa legs and must be removed.  There are two locator pins for the
> mainwheels, meant to help align the wheels and position the attached
larger
> door correctly.  Cut away the smaller pin and keep the proper axel.  This
> will mean a little extra work in alignment, but it will look much better.
> Adding hydraulic wiring will greatly enhance the appearance, and once
again
> Eduard comes to the rescue with additional details for the jointed
sections
> of the maingear.
>
> The mainwheels themselves must be widened; I sawed mine in two, then added
> two .020" discs and sanded it all smooth.  Then fill the two holes for the
> larger gear door, which obviously wouldn't be directly attached to the
wheel
> hub in the first place.  The larger gear door actually attaches to the
> maingear leg and slopes over the wheel like a mud guard, which Eduard has
> delicately reproduced.
>
> The nosegear was more of a problem.  The MiG-23ML and MLD (Floggers G and
K)
> had redesigned nosegear with revised torque links in front of the oleo
> strutt.  To replicate this, I cut off the entire oleo (which was too thin
> anyway) and all the detail in the front.  The oleo leg was first replaced,
> and the wheel attachment section reattached, and then the complex assembly
> for the torque link was built.  Then it was down to added details, tubing,
> and wiring as per available photos.
>
> The nosewheels of the ML and MLD are larger than on the earlier variants,
> and I found the solution in the spares box: mainwheels from a Heller
Mirage
> F1 appeared to be just the right size!  This meant making new wheel hubs
for
> them, and this was before I knew aftermarket MiG wheels were available.
>
> PAINTING
> At this point, while all the parts had been prepared and detailed, much of
> it would not be assembled until after the airframe was painted.  This left
> the missile rails, flare/chaff dispensers, and landing gear all lying by
the
> wayside.  Also the ventral gun is in this bunch, with replaced cannon
> barrels and shell ejector fairings.
>
> The first time I saw a photo of the Afghan veteran "White 64" in a
magazine,
> it was love at first sight.  I knew immediately that the Flogger K I had
> already started building and detailing would have to be this one, whether
I
> could find the aftermarket details or not.  Fortunately the correct decals
> did finally hit the market, mine being from Linden Hill Imports.
>
> I use almost excusively Model Master enamels.  It took three attempts at
> different mixes to capture the paint shades to my satisfaction, and each
> attempt also helped me revise the camouflage pattern more, since much of
it
> was based on the dorsal view of a different Flogger K, but blended to meet
> the patterns evident from available photos of White 64.  I still have the
> paint mixes listed somewhere if anyone's curious.
>
> For me, the first rule of painting non-US-built aircraft is, avoid using
> specific FS numbers!!  Why in the world would Moscow want to consult with
> the United States' Federal Standard of colors to paint their warplanes???
> Foreign planes should be painted in colors that look...well, foreign!
>
> The artwork on the side of the intakes is beautifully provided on the
> decals, but you must provide the blue and white background, simply sprayed
> on the side.  A mix of light blue is first, followed by "starburst" style
> streaking with pure white.  Make sure it's the proper size background for
> the decal.
>
> Much of the white stencilling actually came from the Superscale sheet of
> F9F-2/3/5 data.  It's small enough that you can't tell what language it's
> in, yet is printed well enough to look very convincing.
>
> Weathering was done with a watercolor sludge along with some additional
> airbrushing, plus drybrushing both outside and inside the afterburner.
The
> radome was also drybrushed as the photos I've seen of this aircraft show
it
> to be highly weathered revealing a tannish color below.
>
> FINAL ASSEMBLY
> Finally, all the extra bits get attached, mainly the weapons and pylons,
> landing gear and their doors, and the fuel tank.  The AA-8 missiles were
> from the Italeri kit, which have wonderfully thin rear fins, but with the
> forward fins replaced with scratch-built items, plus their ventral
> structures made from styrene strip.  Once you add the twin dark red
stripes
> around the IR seeker, they look nice.  I'm not positive, but I think the
> AA-7's were from the DML weapons kit, which got dumped into my missile
> spares bin years back.
>
> At this time the ejection seat is also installed, but a problem was
> discovered: the True Details resin seat was too wide to fit between the
> consoles (ah, yes, the problems of kitbashing).  Fortunately I was able to
> shave enough off the the sides of the seat bottom without making it look
too
> obvious.  The headrest was reshaped (as I've always been critical of the
> True Details KM-1 headrest), and the ejection handles added from the
Eduard
> set.  The canopy was left removable, as Hasegawa nicely made it able to be
> positioned open or shut, depending on what mood you're in on any given
day.
>
> SUMMARY
> Believe it or not, this was not a grueling project, but a delightful one!
> Kitbashes are often a good way to overcome perceived shortcomings of any
kit
> if you can find a way to combine the strengths of other kits.  Happy
> building!
>
> Andrew Desautels
> (aka Andrew D. the Jolly Rogers guy)
>
> Photos and text © 2003 by Andrew Desautels
>
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