Dry transfers are reverse
printed on a temporary clear film. When you apply the stencils you
lay the back of the stencils on the painted surface of the model and then
burnish (rub) them down through the clear temporary carrier film.
The dry transfer adheres to the model's surface and disengages from the
clear carrier film. The beauty of dry transfers is particularly
apparent on models with bare metal finishes. The clear carrier film
normally associated with waterslide decals simply isn't there, and all
that you're left with is the marking itself. It also eliminates
silvering, and no setting solutions are required in most cases. If
the markings need a little help settiling into deep recesses, Hobbydecal
recommends burnishing the transferred marking down with a moist Q-Tip.
While this represents a departure from the application of waterslide
decals, they really are easy to use once you get the hang of it.
They also tend to speed up the finishing time on your model. Once you get
used to using fry transfers, you'll find that in many cases, they'll go on
quicker than waterslides. Just remember to completely burnish the
markings before lifting the sheet.
Remember, the one downside to
applying dry transfers is this: once they're on the surface of the
model, there's no moving them around - they're permanent. Be sure to
place the markings carefully before burnishing. Sometimes it's best to
cut the transfers out and tape them down to ensure exact placement.
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The dry transfers are very
clearly printed and will replicate the actual stencils on the
perfectly. This particular sheet contains all pertinent stencil data
including NO STEP markings, ejection seat triangles, RESCUE arrows, and
loads of other stencil data. There are even numerals and national
insignia are also supplied.
It's difficult to see in the
scan of the entire sheet just how clearly the markings are printed.
But rest assured....these are very clearly printed and you will be
impressed.
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