Creating a Realistic Chipped Paint Finish

By Aaron Pfau

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While working on Tamiya's 1/48 F4U-1A, I learned this new technique for creating a "chipped paint" finish that I feel looks extremely realistic.  While painting a base coat and applying the scratches afterwards with a silver pen or drybrushing certainly works, I wanted to take things a step further to get a super realistic look.  This technique is a tad more laborious, but is really easy and takes some patience, but the results are definitely worth it!

Future is made by Johnson Wax Co and is sold around the world under different product names...such as "Kleer" to name one
 

For this technique, you will need a roll of masking tape, some Future Floor polish or Clear Coat, SNJ metal powder or some other equivalent like Testor's Metalizer, color paint for your base coat (I use Model Master Enamels, but any Acrylic or Enamel will do), and lastly an airbrush.

 

 
 
Start by washing your parts in soap & water to remove any residue or oil left from the molds and allow them to air dry.  Next, begin airbrushing your parts with the metal color.  There is no need to use a primer, but you can if you want to.  Then let the parts dry for at least a few hours.  
 
Next, spray a coat of Future Floor Polish (available at most grocery or department stores), or substitute your favorite Clear Coat.  This coat is applied to protect the metal finish when you will do your paint chipping later on.  Let the Future or Clear Coat dry for about 24 hours to set.
 
Finally, after your sure the clear coat has dried completely, begin airbrushing your base color over the top of the metal color, covering the surfaces completely with your base coat.  IMPORTANT: Allow to dry for 1 hour only.  It is important not to let the paint dry too long and cure too hard.  You want the paint to be dry to the touch, but not so hard that masking tape won't lift it off.  The amount of time you wait is proportional to what type of paint you use.  Acrylics tend to dry faster than enamels.  For Testor's enamels, I usually wait 1-2 hours.
 
  
 
Now for the FUN part!  Tear off a piece of masking tape and with a dabbing type motion, press it against the part and pull off rapidly.  You will see the masking tape pull off "chips" of the base coat to reveal the metal underneath!  Continue pressing the tape and pulling it off to add more and more wear to your model.  Pretty fun, eh?  Careful not to get too carried away, a little of this goes a long way.  Pull off more paint at leading edges and places where maintenance has been done.  I think you'll find this technique will greatly enhance the realism of your models.
 
Happy modeling! 

Aaron Pfau

 

Photos and text © 2001 by Aaron Pfau