1/32 Revell Germany F-4F Phantom II

 “WTD Flight Test”

Gallery Article by Carl Jarosz on Feb 13 2017

 

      

I don’t build many 1/32 models for a number of compelling reasons: 1) I don’t have much space to display them (but I might add a second story onto my house if I receive rave reviews from this submission, encouraging me to build more in the larger functional scales); 2) The size of the aircraft begs for nearly every aftermarket accessory to be incorporated into the finished product, which amounts to twice, approaching three times the cost of the kit alone; 3) Every flaw becomes magnified for all other modelers to see (and gasp in horror); 4) I have to drive my truck to the hobby store to ensure I purchase enough paint in quantity to cover the completed model.

I threw all the above concerns out the window when I beheld the release of this kit back in 2014. It was so stunning, I had to have a copy. Then I had to reserve part of my life to build it to my satisfaction!

As this submission to ARC attests, my mad drive to build this kit had been realized. I’d like to first consider the good points I experienced or chose to follow building this kit. First, I decided to forego the aftermarket accessories. I’ve always been impressed with the level of detail of Revell Germany kits in larger scales regarding their cockpits, a critical section of any aircraft model. I followed the painting instructions, but I brought out the instrument panel gauge details using a light gray colored pencil, holding it on tapered edge (made by a pencil sharpener) as I lightly dragged it across the raised gauge outlines molded on the plastic. Err on the minimal pressure side; I went over some gauges several times to bring out the degree of contrast. If you employ this technique, it’s crucial to make sure you move in the same direction, as altering hand movement does have an impact on pressure – and the amount of colored lead deposited on an area! I used the same technique on the side panels which contain the many raised knobs and special devices. 

As for the radar display screens, I painted the bare plastic a silver color, then used clear green acrylic paint, which brings out a level of contrast that to me looks more like the photos I’ve examined of Phantom cockpits. Incidentally, I use the appropriate clear acrylic color for running lights as well.

As for part fit, overall it was decent, but nothing in this scale seems to be flush enough without a bit of coaxing. I used a number of clothes pins and small clamps to close up or greatly minimize gaps between top and bottom section of aft fuselage and wings to fuselage. The fuselage section is so large, it has a degree of pliability that allows movement to get a good joint without use, or minimal use, of putty filler.

I also decided to not build and display the radar in the nose of the model. While it adds a level of detail, I felt it would detract from the overall beauty of the finished model. I used the space in the nose cone for weight to ensure the plane sat on its tricycle gear when completed.

You should also note I didn’t add any ordnance on the aircraft. The real jet was used for flight testing, not dogfighting. Again, adding bombs and rockets seemed to be a great distraction from the marvelous paint job used on the actual aircraft. The use of extra wing tanks seemed to be a constant in the over one hundred photos I looked at of F-4E Phantoms: the airplane was a gas guzzler and extra fuel was always necessary as insurance if any range of operations or air activities was involved.

Click on images below to see larger images

Now for the not so happy moments during this build.

First, the instruction booklet was too vague as to where exactly the wing demarcation line from orange to black was to take place. I found myself having to increase the length of black section once I applied the decals, for the edges of the decals was a better indication where the orange area ended and the black section took over (they get blacker at the boundary). If I had to do it over, I’d just spray the wings orange, apply decals until the last segment, when I could more accurately measure where the black line should be located, then mask off for black paint. Which leads into the worst aspect of the build: The decals.

This model was the most challenging I ever had for decaling. I must make the following recommendations about decaling this “bird,” or else you’ll not get a symmetrical, esthetically appealing model in the end. First, seriously consider cutting the largest decals in half, at least. I luckily tried a full sized vertical stabilizer decal as my first one, and found it stretched too much: it appreciably overlapped the vertical fin. A lot of MicroSet and careful fingers allowed me to better draw in the decal within the boundary of the part. I began cutting big pieces thereafter.

Second, be sure to pick out a location for the first decal, then you must progress from that point! The reason for this should be obvious from the attached photos: the blasted checkerboard pattern. The tips of alternating checkerboard squares must line up across and vertically. If you’re not careful with alignment, it magnifies over a large area. Trying to reset wrong angular orientation, if even mildly so, can be seen and adds woes for adjoining decals. As I mentioned, I chose the vertical stabilizer as my decaling origin. One could use a wing tip if desired.

Third, do not try to complete all decaling in one session! Previously applied decals can have movement at the edges and especially corners. And it’s the edges and corners that are critical to have proper joining with another decal section. I found myself applying only two sections at a time, waiting for MicroSol to do its magic, then coating the section with Future (and await drying) before adding further decals.

On a final decaling note, don’t fret excessively if there may be a small (1/32 inch or so) gap between the curved fuselage body and wings. Just break out the black paint and carefully brush a little extension to some squares. It beats trying to bend a decal to make it match where another ended. 

Finally, I felt compelled to weather the underside wheel wells – because those photos always had signs of residual grease and oil smears in those locations. I used Black Detailer in the wheel wells. I used black pastel chalk for the titanium engine exhaust section of the tailplane. The exhaust area always showed signs from the Phantom being a “smoker.”

I used Model Master enamel paints, only using acrylics on radar scopes in the cockpit and running lights, as mentioned. I spent over 40 hours over many evenings and weekends getting it done, much of it during the decal application. Alas, I had professional activities interrupt my build, so the project spanned over a half year. I used the model build to de-stress from daily life.

Carl Jarosz

Photos and text © by Carl Jarosz