1/72 Matchbox AW Meteor NF 11

A Belgian Nightfighter...and it's a Matchbox!

by Bernd Korte

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  Belgium Independence Day 2005 

 

The Aircraft

 

The Meteor Nightfighter versions were developed shortly after WW II from the first two-seat Meteor, the T 7 trainer. Right from the start, the Meteor NF series was developed as a pure stopgap to displace the ageing Mosquito nightfighters until the more sophisticated Javelin became available. The Night Fighter 11 started this new Meteor subfamily and was delivered to the RAF beginning in August 1951.

 

In 1952, Belgium ordered twelve Night Fighters to replace their Mosquitoes. In 1956 another order was placed for twelve more NF 11.  However, this second order didn’t comprise any new aircraft, but included ex-RAF planes. As early as 1958, the Belgian NF 11 were being replaced themselves by the CF-100, Canuck all weather interceptors. Some of the aircraft were sent to storage as they were to be converted to target tugs.  As this plan never materialized, all the Belgian NF 11 were scrapped some years later.

 

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The Kit

 

Eduard and MPM have announced a new line of 1/72 scale Meteor kits for this year (2005) that will (hopefully) bring some new tooled NFs.  My only sound response could be the immediate assembly of my stashed Matchbox kit.

 

This kit comes with, among others, decals for a Belgian Meteor NF 11 with the registration EN6. And as these decals caught my eye, I didn’t search for any aftermarket ones.

The Matchbox kit offers you the possibility to build any of  three different versions of the Meteor NF. You can either opt for a NF 11, a NF 12 or a NF 14 (a NF 13 should also be possible). All version-specific parts are included, as different canopies, engine inlets with different diameters and different tail units. My first task was to select those assembly steps from the instruction sheet that were needed for my NF 11.

Construction

 

First, I rescribed all the kit parts that were needed for my NF 11. Fortunately, this kit doesn’t come with those trenchlike panel lines that many Matchbox kits are notorious for, but it has fine raised detail. As these lines seem to be accurate when compared with scale drawings (see “references” below), I just turned them into engraved lines. Dymo tape was used as a flexible guide for the rescribing needle.
As expected, the Matchbox cockpit detail is quite sparse. A floor, two lawn chairs, instrument panels and control sticks are all that the model engineers brought themselves to do at that time. The suitable Airwaves PE set produces relief and provides structured side walls, panel detail and seat belts.

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The whole cockpit was painted with a lightened black. I can’t recommend the use of pure flat black, the standard cockpit colour for British aircraft of this period, as too much of the detail would be absorbed. After some drybrushing with grey, the detail pops right out!  Then a flat finish (Humbrol matt cote) was applied, and the cockpit section disappeared into the fuselage.

The radome, tail unit and the wings were assembled straight forward, but there is a definite need for some filling and sanding. The need for an overhaul wasn’t restricted to the cockpit, as I had successfully managed to break off three of the four molded on, 20mm wing guns.  I really didn’t have another option than to replace them with stretched sprue. Another part of the kit that needed some help is the drop tanks. References show a very visible seam between the upper and the lower tank halves. Some stretched sprue helps to simulate this characteristic. The white stripes are painted masking tapes.

Even when compared to the Matchbox standard, the landing gear design is unusually simple. Wheels, mudguards and struts are moulded as one piece. As I wanted to create at least the effect of separate parts, all parting lines between the wheel, mudguards and wheel fork were accented with an engraving needle. The bales that go from hub to hub, over the mudguard were added from stretched sprue.

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The wings and engine nacelles surprised me with an unexpectedly good fit, however I didn’t stay free of filler here either. The worst fit of this kit is encountered when you try to mate the version specific fuselage/cockpit insert (part # 3 and # 4 respectively) and the already assembled fuselage. These parts had to be glued under tension. The resulting gaps, despite everything are not all that bad, as long as they aren’t too wide. Almost all seams cover original panel lines. That is to say that you just have to bring the gaps on a consistent level with the new engraved panel lines (concerning their width and depth), and you’re done. No filling!

To be on the safe side, I added some weight before I glued the radome in place. However, I don’t think the model would be “a taildragger” without that extra weight, but you never know.

Painting and Markings

 

First, all wheel wells were painted aluminium and masked, before I continued with the camouflage. Comparing my references with the camouflage pattern that you find in the instructions and on the box proved to be accurate. It consists of only two colours, Dark Sea Gray (BS 381 C: 638) and Dark Green (BS 381 C: 641). For both of them I used colours from the great JPS Color line. After a short time of familiarisation with the JPS paints, I had no problems using these acrylic paints. Once dry, they provide a semi gloss finish.

As the demarcation between the colours of RAF planes of that period is very sharp, there was no way to avoid some time-consuming masking. As JPS paints dry in fast order, I was able to spray a coat of Erdal Glänzer (German Future-like product) to prepare the model for the decals right after I had cleaned the JPS paint from the airbrush.

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Despite their age, the outward appearance of the decals was still very good. Anyway I treated them as a dark horse and tested their performance with a decal that I didn’t need for the Belgian Meteor. Luckily the performance kept what the good look had promised. With the help of some decal softener they snuggled right down into the panel lines despite the comparably heavy thickness of the adhesive film. When all decals were in place, and dry, another coat of Erdal Glänzer sealed them.

Now it was time for the obligatory washing with diluted oil paint to highlight the panel lines and to simulate dirt smears. I mixed black oil paint with some white, because in most cases a pitch-black washing appears too intrusive. Admittedly,  I thought I had more of a greyish wash than that what you see applied. Mental note to self: more white next time!!

Humbrol clear cote was used for the final finish. A decent drybrushing with aluminium, especially along the panel lines and at heavily strained areas like under the cockpit, completed the weathering.

When doing such “special effects” you should always first investigate which areas of the real airplane consisted of metal and which were made out of fabric or wood. As I didn’t stick to that rule, I now have to live with the results. Just have a look at the engine inlet lips, they are drybrushed with aluminium, fortunately just a bit, but in fact they are wooden on the real thing! But who knows?

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The last bits

 

The heading definitely plays this part of the construction down, because in this case, the landing gear is also among “the last bits”. And unfortunately, the landing gear is a real pain in the a** when it comes to its assembling. There are no location reference marks and the instructions don’t show more than some vague arrows that point somewhere in the wheel well. Without references (see below) you would really have a hard time.

 

The canopy was the last hurdle. Originally I had intended to leave it in the closed position as its thickness is quite evident. Unfortunately the canopy didn’t fit at all in the closed position. It was just too narrow. And as I really didn’t feel like making a new and wider copy of this winter garden, I was bound to scratchbuild the missing internal detail and fix that canopy in the open position. Luckily for me, I have to say, because the model now looks much more interesting than with a closed canopy. Finally, the antennas (stretched sprue and parts from the mentioned Airwaves PE set), the steps below the cockpit, the pitot tube and the position lights completed my Belgian Englishman.

 

Thanks to Lubosch Wimmer for his kind support with the reference material.

Bernd

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References:

  • Modellers Datafile #8, The Gloster & AW Meteor, A Comprehensive Guide For The Modeller, SAM Publications, ISBN 0-9533465-8-7

  • Warpaint Series No. 22, Gloster Meteor, by Tony Buttler
  • Aircraft Number 152, Meteor in action, by Glenn Ashley, squadron/signal publications, ISBN 0-89747-332-9

Photos and text © by Bernd Korte