The
Aircraft
The
Meteor Nightfighter versions were developed shortly after WW II from the first
two-seat Meteor, the T 7 trainer. Right from the start, the Meteor NF series was
developed as a pure stopgap to displace the ageing Mosquito nightfighters until
the more sophisticated Javelin became available. The Night Fighter 11 started
this new Meteor subfamily and was delivered to the RAF beginning in August 1951.
In
1952, Belgium ordered twelve Night Fighters to replace their Mosquitoes. In 1956
another order was placed for twelve more NF 11.
However, this second order didn’t comprise any new aircraft, but
included ex-RAF planes. As early as 1958, the Belgian NF 11 were being replaced
themselves by the CF-100, Canuck all weather interceptors. Some of the aircraft
were sent to storage as they were to be converted to target tugs. As this
plan never materialized, all the Belgian NF 11 were scrapped some years later.
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The
Kit
Eduard
and MPM have announced a new line of 1/72 scale Meteor kits for this year (2005)
that will (hopefully) bring some new tooled NFs. My only sound response
could be the immediate assembly of my stashed Matchbox kit.
This
kit comes with, among others, decals for a Belgian Meteor NF 11 with the
registration EN6. And as these decals caught my eye, I didn’t search for any
aftermarket ones.
The
Matchbox kit offers you the possibility to build any of
three different versions of the Meteor NF. You can either opt for a NF
11, a NF 12 or a NF 14 (a NF 13 should also be possible). All version-specific
parts are included, as different canopies, engine inlets with different
diameters and different tail units. My first task was to select those assembly
steps from the instruction sheet that were needed for my NF 11.
Construction
First,
I rescribed all the kit parts that were needed for my NF 11. Fortunately, this
kit doesn’t come with those trenchlike panel lines that many Matchbox kits are
notorious for, but it has fine raised detail. As these lines seem to be accurate
when compared with scale drawings (see “references” below), I just turned
them into engraved lines. Dymo tape was used as a flexible guide for the
rescribing needle.
As
expected, the Matchbox cockpit detail is quite sparse. A floor, two lawn
chairs, instrument panels and control sticks are all that the model
engineers brought themselves to do at that time. The suitable Airwaves PE
set produces relief and provides structured side walls, panel detail and
seat belts. |
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The
whole cockpit was painted with a lightened black. I can’t recommend the
use of pure flat black, the standard cockpit colour for British aircraft
of this period, as too much of the detail would be absorbed. After some
drybrushing with grey, the detail pops right out!
Then a flat finish (Humbrol matt cote) was applied, and the cockpit
section disappeared into the fuselage. |
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The
radome, tail unit and the wings were assembled straight forward, but there is a
definite need for some filling and sanding. The need for an overhaul wasn’t
restricted to the cockpit, as I had successfully managed to break off three of
the four molded on, 20mm wing guns. I
really didn’t have another option than to replace them with stretched sprue.
Another part of the kit that needed some help is the drop tanks. References show
a very visible seam between the upper and the lower tank halves. Some stretched
sprue helps to simulate this characteristic. The white stripes are painted
masking tapes.
Even
when compared to the Matchbox standard, the landing gear design is unusually
simple. Wheels, mudguards and struts are moulded as one piece. As I wanted to
create at least the effect of separate parts, all parting lines between the
wheel, mudguards and wheel fork were accented with an engraving needle. The
bales that go from hub to hub, over the mudguard were added from stretched sprue.
The
wings and engine nacelles surprised me with an unexpectedly good fit, however I
didn’t stay free of filler here either. The worst fit of this kit is
encountered when you try to mate the version specific fuselage/cockpit insert
(part # 3 and # 4 respectively) and the already assembled fuselage. These parts
had to be glued under tension. The resulting gaps, despite everything are not
all that bad, as long as they aren’t too wide. Almost all seams cover original
panel lines. That is to say that you just have to bring the gaps on a consistent
level with the new engraved panel lines (concerning their width and depth), and
you’re done. No filling!
To
be on the safe side, I added some weight before I glued the radome in place.
However, I don’t think the model would be “a taildragger” without that
extra weight, but you never know.
Painting
and Markings
First,
all wheel wells were painted aluminium and masked, before I continued with the
camouflage. Comparing my references with the camouflage pattern that you find in
the instructions and on the box proved to be accurate. It consists of only two
colours, Dark Sea Gray (BS 381 C: 638) and Dark Green (BS 381 C: 641). For both
of them I used colours from the great JPS Color line. After a short time of
familiarisation with the JPS paints, I had no problems using these acrylic
paints. Once dry, they provide a semi gloss finish.
As
the demarcation between the colours of RAF planes of that period is very
sharp, there was no way to avoid some time-consuming masking. As JPS
paints dry in fast order, I was able to spray a coat of Erdal Glänzer
(German Future-like product) to prepare the model for the decals right
after I had cleaned the JPS paint from the airbrush. |
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Despite
their age, the outward appearance of the decals was still very good. Anyway I
treated them as a dark horse and tested their performance with a decal that I
didn’t need for the Belgian Meteor. Luckily the performance kept what the good
look had promised. With the help of some decal softener they snuggled right down
into the panel lines despite the comparably heavy thickness of the adhesive
film. When all decals were in place, and dry, another coat of Erdal Glänzer
sealed them.
Now
it was time for the obligatory washing with diluted oil paint to highlight the
panel lines and to simulate dirt smears. I mixed black oil paint with some
white, because in most cases a pitch-black washing appears too intrusive.
Admittedly, I thought I had more of
a greyish wash than that what you see applied. Mental note to self: more white
next time!!
Humbrol
clear cote was used for the final finish. A decent drybrushing with aluminium,
especially along the panel lines and at heavily strained areas like under the
cockpit, completed the weathering.
When
doing such “special effects” you should always first investigate which areas
of the real airplane consisted of metal and which were made out of fabric or
wood. As I didn’t stick to that rule, I now have to live with the results.
Just have a look at the engine inlet lips, they are drybrushed with aluminium,
fortunately just a bit, but in fact they are wooden on the real thing! But who
knows?
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The
last bits
The
heading definitely plays this part of the construction down, because in this
case, the landing gear is also among “the last bits”. And unfortunately, the
landing gear is a real pain in the a** when it comes to its assembling. There
are no location reference marks and the instructions don’t show more than some
vague arrows that point somewhere in the wheel well. Without references (see
below) you would really have a hard time.
The
canopy was the last hurdle. Originally I had intended to leave it in the closed
position as its thickness is quite evident. Unfortunately the canopy didn’t
fit at all in the closed position. It was just too narrow. And as I really
didn’t feel like making a new and wider copy of this winter garden, I was
bound to scratchbuild the missing internal detail and fix that canopy in the
open position. Luckily for me, I have to say, because the model now looks much
more interesting than with a closed canopy. Finally, the antennas (stretched
sprue and parts from the mentioned Airwaves PE set), the steps below the
cockpit, the pitot tube and the position lights completed my Belgian Englishman.
Thanks
to Lubosch Wimmer for his kind support with the reference material.
Bernd
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References:
-
Modellers
Datafile #8, The Gloster & AW Meteor, A Comprehensive Guide For The
Modeller, SAM Publications, ISBN 0-9533465-8-7
- Warpaint
Series No. 22, Gloster Meteor, by Tony Buttler
- Aircraft
Number 152, Meteor in action, by Glenn Ashley, squadron/signal publications,
ISBN 0-89747-332-9
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